Tuesday, April 20, 2010

[67] たらい舟 RIDING ON A TARAI-BUNE BOAT


                     たらい舟下り

 4月8日、大垣で一風変わった経験をしました。大垣を流れる水門川を約30分間、満開の桜を見ながら「たらい舟下り」をしたのです。水門川はもと大垣城のお堀でした。たらいは直径1.3メートル、深さ50センチで、中に長さ1メートルぐらいの木の椅子があり、2名の客が並んで腰かけます。船頭さんが青い法被を着て笠をかぶって、たらいを漕ぎます。
 まず、女房がたらいに乗船。乗り場で男の人が二人、たらいが揺れないようにおさえていてくれました。次に私が乗る番です。私が椅子に座るまで、たらいはゆらゆら揺れて緊張しました。船頭さんが乗り場の岸を竹竿で押して、さあ、たらいクルーズの冒険が始まります。テープレコーダーのスイッチが押され、ガイドの声が流れてきました。
 5分後、八幡神社近くの橋まで接近。橋をくぐりながら、小学校の時、水門川で遊んだことを思い出しました。ある日、橋の支柱にくくりつけてある、持ち主のない(ような)ぼろ舟に友達3、4人とこっそり乗りました。ロープをはずして、15分ぐらい川を下ったのです。スリルがあって、愉快で、面白く、まるでトムソーヤの冒険でした。大人の人が岸から僕たちを見下ろしていましたが、子供の無謀な川遊びを注意しませんでした。友達と交替で船を漕ぎ、汚い鞄とかテーブルの脚など、変な物を拾って大笑いしました。

     舟底で
     左に右に
     揺れる水

 たらい舟は両岸に咲き誇る満開の桜の下を下って行きます。川は透き通っていて、沢山の水草が水中で揺らめいています。岸から女の人が私達の写真を撮っています。川の流れに身を任せてゆらりゆらりと下っている私達を羨ましがっているようです。子供の頃、たらい舟で水門川を下るなんて夢にも思いませんでした。岸から見る川の眺めと、たらい舟から見る景色は全く違います。昔は岸から見下ろしていたのに、今は下から桜を見上げているのです。
 船頭さんは、たらい舟の舵取りが上手です。たらいに立ったまま、まずたらいの左側の川底に竹竿をさして、たらいの舵を取り、次に右側をさすのです。この繰り返しで、左、右、左、右と漕いで行きます。たらいはジグザグに進みますが、全体的には直進しているのです。

     お椀漕ぐ
     一寸法師
     汗をかき

 15分ぐらい下って行くと、あら懐かしの橋のところに来ました。橋の側面に大きなプレートが張り付けてあり、そこに「興文橋」と書いてあります。私はこの橋を渡って、興文小学校、興文中学校と9年間通いました。まさか60年後にたらいでこの橋をくぐるとは思ってもいませんでした。当時、橋の近くに耳をつんざくような騒音がする製材所があって、木材の切れ端が製材所の塀にいっぱい立てかけてありました。先のとんがったものもあり、いたずら坊主共は手ごろな切れ端(手に持って長過ぎず、先が鋭く尖っているもの)を探して、橋まで行って、力いっぱい川底めがけて投げつけるのです。運がいいと「槍」は川底に突き刺さります。私は何度やっても失敗しましたが。学校帰りに橋から川を見ると何本かの槍が川に突き刺さっていました。
 テープレコーダーから大垣音頭が聞こえてきました。忘れもしない懐かしい曲です。大垣のお盆祭で大垣音頭に合わせて踊ったことを思い出しました。毎年祭の3日間、大垣の大通りで流れた曲です。祭の事を思い出して、テープに合わせて大垣音頭を口ずさみました。

     ♪水で磨いた、玉の肌、それ! 大垣、音頭~

大垣は水がきれいで、水都とも呼ばれています。大垣で過ごした子供時代に戻ったような気になりました。

     厳寒や
     湯気立ち上がる
     井戸の水

 たらいクルーズの最後の地点で、川幅が突然60メートルぐらいに広がります。この水域は、幅8メートル高さ10メートルの滝や、美しい桜、緑の松、苔の生えた岩石などで囲まれています。松尾芭蕉の「奥の細道」の終着地を記念する記念館がここにあります。ここがたらい舟下りの終点の船着き場で、女房と私は下船しました。私が、揺れるたらいからおりる時、川に落っこちないように女の人が手を差し伸べてくれました。彼女は一体誰か、と思いきや、私の小学校の同級生でした。びっくりするやら、懐かしいやら。

     足痛め     
     おんぶで下山(げざん)
     宣子ちゃん

 たらい舟下りは楽しかった。少年時代の事をいっぱい思い出しました。



        RIDING ON A TARAI-BUNE BOAT

  I had a unique experience in Ogaki City on April 8. My wife and I rode on a tarai-bune or a round wooden tub boat for about 30 minutes down the Suimon River enjoying the full-bloom cherry blossoms. The river, a former moat around Ogaki Castle, runs through the city. The tarai boat is about 1.3 meters across and 50 centimeters deep. Each tarai accommodates two sightseers, who sit side by side on a one-meter-long wooden bench in the tarai. An oarsman clad in a light blue happi-coat and a straw hat on rows the tarai-bune.
  First, my wife got on the tarai-bune. Two men on the pier held it tightly so that it would not rock. Then I got on it. Until I settled down on the bench inside, it was rocking and I felt uneasy. Then the oarsman pushed off from the pier with a bamboo pole, and the adventurous cruise started. The oarsman switched on the tape recorder, which began to guide the tour.
  In five minutes, we are passing under the bridge near Hachiman Shrine. As I am passing, I remember an adventure from my elementary schooldays on the river. One day my friends and I stealthily got on a seemingly deserted boat which was tied with a rope to a bridge pole. We untied the rope and went down the river for about 15 minutes. It was thrilling, amusing, and exciting. I felt as if I were in the Tom Sawyer world. Some adults were watching us from the bank, but they did not scold us for our recklessness. We took turns rowing the boat. We picked up trifle things such as a dirty bag and a broken leg of a table on the river and laughed.

     flimsy boat
     water in bottom
     swaying right and left

  The tarai boat floats down the river under the full bloom cherry blossoms on both banks. The river is so clean that we see a lot of water weeds wavering. Some onlookers are taking pictures of us. They may be envious of us, who have abandoned themselves and are drifting with the current. When I was a boy, I never dreamed of riding down the river in a tarai-bune. The scenery viewed from the bank of the river and that from the tarai-bune is quite different. I used to look down the river from the bank, but now I am looking up at the banks covered by beautiful cherry blossoms.
  The oarsman steers the tarai skillfully. Standing in it, he first pushes the bottom of the river at the left side of the tarai with his bamboo pole, then he pushes the right side bottom. He repeats the same action, left, right, left, right. The tarai is zigzagging, but on the whole it is going straight.

     Issun-boshi in owan boat
     zigzagging with chopstick
     beads of sweat on forehead (1)

  After about a 15-minute ride, I come close to a good old bridge. The name of the bridge is written on a large plate attached to the side of the bridge. It reads “Kobun-bashi Bridge” I crossed the bridge to go to Kobun Elementary School and Kobun Junior High School for nine years. I never dreamed of passing under the bridge in a tarai boat 60 years later. Near the bridge there used to be an ear-splitting lumber mill. A lot of deserted surplus wooden pieces were propped against the fence of the mill. Some of them had pointed ends. Mischievous boys selected good ones, not too long to handle and sharp enough, brought them to the bridge, and threw them with all their might into the river. Lucky boys successfully stuck his “spears.” I tried throwing them but every time, they did not stick into the bottom. Sometimes when I crossed the bridge on my way home, I saw some sticks standing in the river.
  The tape recorder began to play the Ogaki-ondo dancing song, which is too familiar to me to forget. I remembered how I danced with the song at the Ogaki Bon Festival. Every year the song was heard all over Ogaki main streets during the three-day festival. Remembering the festival, I sing the song accompanied by the tape recorder song. ♪Mizude migaita tamano hada, sore, Ogaki Ondo…. (My skin is pearl-like. I brushed it with Ogaki water. Hey ! Ogaki Dancing Song….) Ogaki is called “Water City” thanks to its good water from underground. I feel as if I returned to my boyhood in Ogaki.

     freezing cold
     steaming water
     in the well

  At the end of the river tour, the river suddenly widens to about 60 meters. The wide water area is surrounded by an eight meter wide and 10-meter high waterfall, beautiful cherry blossoms, green pine trees, and huge rocks coated with moss. Here stands a memorial center commemorating the end of the journey of Okuno-hosomichi (Narrow Road to the Interior) by Basho Matsuo, an eminent haiku master. This is the end of the tarai cruise. My wife and I get off the tarai at the pier. As I am getting off from the rocking tarai, a woman gives me a helping hand so that I will not fall into the river, but who is she? She is my elementary school day classmate. This is a pleasant surprise.

     Mountain climbing
     Nobu-chan on teacher’s back
     pain in her feet

  Riding the tarai, I enjoyed myself, remembering a lot of things from my boyhood.

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(1) Issun-boshi is an-inch-tall monk in a Japanese folk story. He sails to Kyoto to become a warrior in a owan bowl boat. He rows the owan with a chopstick.

5 comments:

  1. Very nice combination of travel writing and memoir. The tarai-bune ride sounds wonderful. I’ll have to try it someday. 

    ReplyDelete
  2. Charlie WatanabeSunday, April 25, 2010

    I am glad you had such a wonderful ride! The ride was so pleasurable and thought-provoking for you because of all the experiences you have had in your life. The same ride would have been experienced by younger people as much less nurturing and educational. That's the beauty of getting old(er). For that, I would not trade my age for youth...

    ReplyDelete
  3. Charlie,

    Thanks for your nice comment.

    News. Please read the Catch Copy page of the Shukan ST May 14th issue. My photograph will be printed in it.

    松岡

    ReplyDelete
  4. Charlie WatanabeMonday, May 10, 2010

    I saw your photo! I am so proud of you! Congratulations! Are you going to use the US-Japan ticket yourself or are you going to give it to someone? What is your next goal? Win a ticket to the moon?!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Charlie,

    Thank you. My goal is to win a ticket to the moon and more.

    ReplyDelete